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Riding & Relaxing in Wyoming's Big Horn Mountains
Michigan Snowmobile Magazine, December 2001
By Mike Carr
Photos by Bernie Rolstad
Reprinted with permission

In the olden days, roughing it was a way of life in Wyoming. There were long hard days on the frail, a lumpy bed on the cold ground, and the same dreary food at every meal. This was the cowboy life, and as spartan as it was, it's something that is celebrated in Sheridan, Wyo. with great pride — along with the illustrious history of the cattle business, the excitement of the rodeo, and the joy of horse riding. Okay, so it wasn't all that bad for the cowpokes in every respect, but there's no denying it was a hard life with not a lot of creature comforts.

Fast forward to the 21st Century, where Sheridan, Wyo. is still the center for cattle raising and horse riding, and proud of its Western heritage. It's also become increasingly well known for a different kind of riding, something that s quite unlike the equine version, and probably a lot more fun — mountain snowmobiling. And there's no longer any need to "rough it" at all when you re doing this kind of riding, if you know where to rest your weary bones after a day of being on, and off, the trail!

Fortunately, there are plenty of options for snowmobilers visiting both Sheridan and the Big Horn Mountains. My photographer Bernie Rolstad and I had the pleasure last March of enjoying one of the snowmobile packages offered by Big Horn Safari, a year-round tour operator that specializes in sled tours out of Sheridan. They tailor each visit to individual or group requirements, and arrange whatever you need, for as many days as you plan to visit: airport pickup, lodging at an assortment of establishments, rental sleds, and local guides. It s a flexible approach at a very reasonable price, so you can arrange the type of riding and lodging you prefer.

We enjoyed a great experience that combined outstanding riding with first-class hospitality; including two nights at The Old Stone House, a deluxe bed and breakfast in Ranchester, a small and appropriately named town at the foot of the mountains. This 100 year old historic home, lovingly restored and now proudly managed by Jack and Gerry Brinkers, was built by rancher Samuel H. Hardin, Wyoming's territorial senator. With soft, comfortable beds and hearty gourmet breakfasts, this is definitely the spot for anyone who enjoys living the good life while on a snowmobile trip!

Each morning, Mona Hansen of Big Horn Safari arrived to pick us up for the half-hour ride up the mountain to our staging area at Arrowhead Lodge, where the Ski Doo Summit 700 longtracks were waiting. Our guide for the two days was Jason Ruby, an experienced local rider who was a knowledgeable and skilled leader, always ready for an adventure.

Our first day of riding from the lodge began with a quick hop on beautiful Trail H, one of the main snowmobile thoroughfares that was wide and well groomed, giving access to other connecting trails and numerous riding areas. Along the way we passed some imposing rock formations and enjoyed great mountain views. After a hall-hour we stopped at Fiberglass Hill, which Jason explained was one of the area's premier hill climbing venues, with its name referring to the remnants of those sleds that were unsuccessful in reaching the top! This was a world class hill, and we watched two riders make a run toward the top, only to get stuck just short of the crest, where the slope up the cornice became near vertical. Our guide — a very experienced mountain rider — demonstrated proper technique by climbing the hill and reaching the summit in a rather spellbinding display of riding prowess. I decided on the less daring halfway ascent, climbing up to and around a group of trees at mid-slope, while Bernie watched from below.

On our way once again, Jason took us off the trail for a cross-country excursion. Climbing through vast snowfields, we pointed our sleds toward the top of Little Bald Mountain, a barren, snow-covered peak rising to an altitude of 9,990 feet. Onward, upward we climbed, the big Ski Doos spitting volumes of snow out the back as the machines labored through the powder as we got higher and higher. In just a few minutes our aptly named Summits had reached the top, affording us a 360-degree panoramic view in every direction. Off in the distance, to the west of the Big Horns, was an arid expanse of brown, with the Snowy Mountain range visible on the horizon. Everywhere else around us was the majesty of the Big Horn Mountains, making for a most memorable sight indeed.

Coming off the mountain, we headed onto the Devils Creek spur trail, a dead end route that culminated with an assortment of beautiful red rock formations. Seeing another peak about two miles distant, we made for it cross-country and were once again treated to fabulous views from the top. Making our way back down, we headed for Bear Lodge, where we refueled and enjoyed a tasty burger lunch.

By this time it was mid-afternoon, and we decided to make a trip to Freeze Out Point, a scenic lookout off the other side of the Big Horn range, to the east. This view was almost as impressive as the prior ones, since the air was clear and the visibility was excellent as we looked across the vast expanse of northeastern Wyoming.

On the way back to our base, we veered off the trail several times to put the sleds through their paces in the deep stuff. It was great fun with the longtrack sleds and their deep paddle tracks, pushing them through the powder and testing our skills. At one point, Jason got stuck in four feet of powder and when I tried to go to his aid by clearing a track ahead of him, ended up in the same predicament just eight feet away. It took us a good half hour to get both sleds free, but as Jason remarked, "If you don't get stuck, that means you haven't really been riding!"

After extricating ourselves, we returned to the lodge with 108 miles on our odometer. Mona was there to give us a ride back to the Old Stone House, where we spent an enjoyable evening relaxing in front of the fireplace, sipping wine and regaling the Brinkers with stories of our day on the trail. As hosts of the first order, they delight in visiting with guests and attending to their every need.

Our second day of riding began with another great breakfast and the short ride up the mountain to our waiting sleds, which were all gassed up and ready to go (is this a great way to enjoy snowmobiling, or what?). The first leg of our day's journey was to Burnt Mountain, where we passed through the charred remains of a 1988 burn called the Impression Fire, which left stands of blackened timber for many acres on both sides of the trail. After that side trip, our objective was Bucking Mule Falls, some seven miles distant on spur Trail L.

After awhile, this well-traveled trail tapered to the width of a single sled as it wound through the timber. Since this route was too narrow for a groomer, there were lots of moguls, making for slow progress for several miles. Eventually it opened up into snowy meadows, allowing us to open the throttles and do some more climbing, which took us to the top of another promontory for more great views. This time the view was of a large reddish canyon far below us, off the western side of the mountains. There was plenty of powder to play in on the way back down, and we had a blast zooming through the billowy snow once again.

Our return trip featured an adventurous excursion down to Porcupine Falls, a frozen waterfall accessible only via a steep, narrow trail with several daunting switchbacks. At the bottom of the descent, we were in the shadow of huge vertical cliffs that towered above us, framing the icy falls on both sides. A spectacular sight indeed!

Now we had to face the challenge of climbing back up on the icy, rutted trail. Jason gave us a few tips, promised to come back for us if we got stuck, and was soon on his way in the lead. After waiting a minute or two, I was underway also, with Bernie following after a similar interval.

Despite my best efforts, the big SkiDoo lost traction just after negotiating a switchback halfway up the slope, where a deep rut caused it to hang up and stop. I left the sled for a moment to go back and stop Bernie at the prior turn, so he wouldn' t suffer a similar fate. True to his word, Jason came back for us on foot and after a couple of runs at the difficult section, managed to get our sleds back up to the top.

All this exertion had worked up quite an appetite. Lunch was a hearty buffalo burger at the Arrowhead Lodge, where we also refueled the sleds. The remainder of the afternoon was spent mostly in trail riding, enjoying several of the loop trails to the south of the lodge, which were all smooth and well groomed. Along the way, we stopped at a huge wooden splash dam, which was just off the trail. This interesting construction was built by loggers early in the 20th Century, to capture meltwater in the spring. After that, it was opened to flush large quantities of logs downstream and off the mountain.

With the sun setting, we pulled back into the lodge with 138 miles to show for our day's adventure and plenty of photos and memories to last a lifetime. Once again, the van from Big Horn Safari was there to take us back to the Old Stone House for more hospitality and a good night's rest. It was a fitting wrap-up to a wonderful riding experience.

The Big Horns consistently rank among the top places in all of the west for snowmobiling, and regularly appear among the "Top 15 Trails In The West" compiled annually by Sno West magazine. It s easy to see why, with 340 miles of groomed trails, deep powder riding opportunities, and great scenery. To experience it fully, I'd recommend three or four days in the mountains and the services of a knowledgeable guide. Big Horn Safari is a great way to go, since they make all the arrangements, with numerous options. For anyone who likes accommodations that are a cut above, the Old Stone House is a superb place to stay — and if you've got ladies in your group, they'll especially appreciate the place and its comfortable surroundings.

The city of Sheridan is also an attraction in its own right, well worth a day of your trip to see and enjoy. The town, famous as the home of "Buffalo Bill" Cody, features numerous historic buildings and museum attractions. With its Old West atmosphere and cowboy heritage, it's a great place to visit and see the sights.

For further information, contact:
Big Horn Safari (800) 598-9692,
Old Stone House B & B (307) 655-9239,
Arrowhead Lodge (877) 637-1890, or
Sheridan Visitors Bureau (888) 596-6787.

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